We were boarded by the French navy.
Unlike other cruisers we know who were searched (and were found to
have had some things they neglected to mention to the authorities...
like 6 or 7 bottles of rum... Oopsie!!... “forgotten” in a sock
drawer), we were not searched. They asked us a few questions: How
much alcohol did we bring on board? Do we have drugs or guns? Do we
have any black pearls? Do we have any animals or plants? Cigarettes?
They wanted to see our flare guns and recorded the number of flares
we had. They were polite, official and then they left.
Starfruit |
Spicy red peppers grow wild and are cultivated |
Jim is antsy to get going... the 90 day
Visa thing – tick-tock-tick-tock... and he wants to see more of
French Polynesia.
Carolyne is eager to get her school
work done every day so that she can hook up with her cruising friends
collected here. She is in no hurry to leave Nuku Hiva.
I am blissful as can be... I could stay
or I could go. I get up early to visit the fishermen and see their
daily catch and watch them feed fish heads to the sharks. I take in
the panoramic view. I skip off to the stores before the other
cruisers so I can buy fresh baked baguettes before they're gone. I
use the internet. I take in the panoramic view. I read a good novel
after lunch. I do a boat chore or 2. I take in the panoramic view.
And I take a 1-2 hour nap in the late afternoon.
Marquesan Tattoos |
A local woman going to church |
The Taiohae anchorage is by far the
most uncomfortable anchorage we have experienced in the Marquesas.
The bay is wide open and so the swell rolls in. It can also be gusty
and there are currents that mimic the La Paz Waltz. I think it would
be best if cruisers followed the advice in Charlie's Charts and bow
and stern anchored. When we arrived, however, only one boat had a
stern anchor. Whether they were there first or not I don't know, but
the rule of thumb is that you do as everyone else when you arrive. It
just doesn't work to have some boats swinging and others not. And it
annoys me to no end to find a good spot to drop the hook, back down
on the anchor and THEN discover that the boat on the port side has a
stern anchor... and no one else does. All you can do is hiss at the
offender and find another spot.
Veg & fruit market |
Market Day in Nuku Hiva is on Wednesday
and Saturday. Fresh supplies of veggies and fruits are brought into
town and quickly sold. I was advised to get there early... before
6am. The produce is fresh, a bit pricey and there is not a lot of it
– but what is there is beautiful! Everyone waits in line (cruisers
and local people) – first come, first serve style. You go in one
family at a time and buy your goods. Carolyne and I came out with a
small bag of tomatoes, a small bag of sweet potatoes, green beans, 3
cucumbers, a large white radish and a small head of cabbage for $20.
And the flavors of the fruit and veg are out of this world –
definitly worth the money and the wait in line in my opinion. Eggs
are a mystery – especially with all the chickens running around.
Almost none of the cruisers have been able to buy eggs – not even
pre-order. The cruisers that did manage to beg, borrow or steal eggs
said they were very, very small – and at the price they paid for a
dozen, probably not worth it.
Very nice photos. The local woman going to church looks like such a lovely person.
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