A Whirlwind of Fun & Changes... and some Thai Green Curry Paste

Company came to visit and got to swim with the Whale Sharks.
Rent went up to $900 US at the sail loft, so we closed it.
Boat Girl had her 14th Halloween Birthday.
And I made Thai Green Chili Paste with my mother's VitaMix.

Carolyne, Don, Penny, Meri and Jim at a high priced steak house in La Paz, Mexico.
Fortunately for us cruisers, our friends have great jobs and wouldn't allow us to pay.
(REALITY: Sometimes when company comes to visit cruisers,
it is hard for them to understand that WE are not
on vacation. It just seems like it.)

A dear friend of mine (with whom I did lots of unspeakable things when we were in our early 20's... like the time we went on a business trip and accidentally stopped in New Orleans along the way...) came to La Paz with her husband to visit the Hotspurvians. Our company was wonderful and it had been way too long since I had seen my dear friend, Penny - 22 years to be exact. Penny and Don had never seen whale sharks and it was pure luck the lumbering beasts just happened to be swimming in the bay. There is nothing like the rush of being in the water with the world's biggest fish! At least that's what I have been told - I like to be the one taking pictures just in case someone gets eaten. You never know when a krill and plankton eater takes a walk on the wild side and wants a chunk of human. And since we've had to close the sail loft due to exorbitant rent I am keeping my eyes peeled for that one money making photo!

It's actually good timing that Snug Harbor Sails closed the sail loft. Rents keep going up in La Paz. Mexico is far from being the "cheap" place it used to be, especially the Baja. When a California home owner can sell a 1-bedroom studio for a million bucks and move south to paradise - let's just say that everyone seems to want a piece of the pie. $900 US dollars a month is too much to rent a dirty, leaky building... and pay commercially rated utilities on top of that, 16% aduana (tax) to import supplies and 11% IVA (local tax). And did I mention that is for only HALF the building?? HALF!!! In the famous words of Popeye the Sailor - enough is too much! So, Snug Doug the owner is taking a little break. Luckily for the sailors in La Paz, that break is only temporary until he finds another location. But in the meantime, he is doing what he loves to do - going sailing!

That's okay - I have so much time on my hands now that I totally got into Carolyne's 14th birthday this year. She wanted to be Tim Burton's Cheshire cat - and coming up with the costume on a budget using creative make-up techniques was SO FUN!! Clothing and shoes are not cheap in Mexico - in fact, they are expensive and usually low quality. So, we tried to use some things we already had - an old T-shirt and Carolyne's school shoes. The make up we bought at the dollar store - WALDOS it's called here. Fabric is cheap in Mexico - the tulle we bought for the skirt cost about $8 US and I have way too much left over. The hair color spray was also about $8 US and the leggings we found and paid a mere $5 US. In total, Carolyne's costume cost us about $25 US. Mexico doesn't celebrate Halloween the same way as the rest of North America, but that never stops us!

I just love her ears - made by braiding her hair around pipe cleaners!

Cat bell collar was her idea!

We're all mad here - Cheshire Cat

And, I promised some wonderful sailing women that I would post how to make my Thai Green Chili Paste. This subject came about when I bragged about finally getting my VitaMix blender on board - rebelling against Captain Crankypants who insists the VitaMix is too big and a space hog. He's simmered down, however, since eating my delicious Thai Green Curry - his favorite! I am only happy to share the recipe and you don't need a VitaMix to make this... but I just love using mine!!

THAI GREEN CHILI PASTE
(this paste can be used in a buttload of Thai dishes. It is totally yummy if you like spicy food!!)

Ingredients:

1 stalk lemongrass, minced OR 3 Tbsp. bottled, frozen or dried lemongrass
3 green chilies (I used Serrano)
4 Tbsp. onion
5 cloves garlic
1 thumb-size piece of fresh ginger or a tsp. of dried ginger
1/2 cup cilantro, leaves & stems
1/2 cup fresh basil
3/4 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. ground white pepper (I used black because that's what I had)
1/2 tsp. ground coriander seeds
3 Tbsp. fish sauce OR 1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. shrimp paste (I didn't have so I used 1/2 tsp. salt)
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 tsp. brown sugar
3 Tbsp. coconut milk (less is best because you don't want it too runny - add a little more if you need)

Place all ingredients in a food processor, chopper, blender or you can use a mortar and pestle. If too salty, add a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Captain Crankpants likes it spicy, so I sometimes add another chili pepper if it's not hot enough. I freeze what I have left over, but this will store nicely for a week or so in the fridge.

Thai Green Curry Paste should be pasty - not runny.

And you can make so many different Thai dishes with this paste - Captain Crankypants likes GANG KEAO WAN GAI made with either chicken or shrimp and the kids love it, too!

Favorite dish made with green curry paste (Recipe Below!)

CAPTAIN CRANKYPANTS'S FAVORITE GREEN CURRY DISH

1 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1 1/2 Tbsp. green curry paste
2 1/2 lbs. boneless chicken sliced into 1" strips or bite sized pieces (or substitute raw, peeled shrimp)
1 cup sliced bamboo shoots
1/4 cup fish sauce
1 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 cup chopped mint leaves OR basil leaves
2 green chili peppers sliced thinly

1. In a large saucepan heat 1/4 cup coconut milk and the green curry paste. Stir until well blended and a thin coat of oil appears on the surface. 
2. Add chicken and continue cooking over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. 
3. Stir in remaining coconut milk, bamboo shoots, fish sauce and sugar. Cover and simmer 8 - 10 minutes or until chicken is cooked. 
4. Remove lid and stir in mint leaves and chili peppers. Cook 3-5 minutes more - stirring. 
5. Serve over rice.

The Hotspur Crew usually makes a double batch because we eat the leftovers the next day - if any of it remains. ENJOY Ya'll!!

The Right Boat for Right Now - Cruising World

I have been published in a national magazine!

In the July 2013 issue of Cruising World, my article appeared under the "Hands-On Sailor" section.
An exciting event!

The Right Boat for Right Now

Baja Sur's Sail Maker's Apprentice

And now an update on my selfish self...

Meri - and her selfish self

Many cruisers talk about filling the cruising kitty - how do you do it?
How do you make money going where the wind takes you?

The easiest way to make money cruising (if there is such a thing) is to find someone along the way that wants to hire you or buy your product. But getting hired abroad while aboard is a toughy... mainly because there are usually legal issues for foreigners. However, it's not impossible.

Crafts made by cruisers:
Leather San Blas beanie croc, hand painted shot glass, tahini paste, sea shell necklace and beaded flower ring

Finding a product that is smallish and has high resale value is the tricky part. Many cruisers make money selling crafts... the materials can be tucked away in hidey holes so easily stored  and you can sell your wares on the beach, at swap meets, rallies, races, cruiser get-togethers, etc... without too much hassle from local law enforcement. But the competition is stiff and making any real money is questionable, unless you are an accomplished "fine artist" like Linda Edeiken on s/v Jacaranda.

Witchy earrings made by Herme on s/v IWA ...
a must have for Carolyne whose birthday is Halloween 

Beaded Sea Horse by s/v Catherine Estelle

Another way to make some dough along the way is to have a service specialty...  maybe you are a diesel mechanic, or refrigeration guru or a computer pundit?

Maybe you specialize in healing massage or homeopathy?

Perhaps you are a serious writer - we have run across several success stories along our travels:

Diane Selkirk, Emily Fagan and Michael Robertson.

In my case, I felt at a loss. And I'm not stupid.

I have a Master's degree... in Theatre. And with all the creative, flamboyant energy...

all I could seem to come up with was what I didn't know how to do.

Negative.

Just how can you focus on the positive when you can't find it?

Master Sail Maker Douglas Nordby... my hero!

What I did have, however, was a crazy idea.

Since Chiapas, MX in May 2012, I had in my mind that when we arrived in La Paz, Baja California Sur I would approach the local sail maker and ask if he needed an apprentice.

I don't know why I thought that.

I am pretty sure that I didn't know the difference between the luff and the leech on a sail.

Seriously.

And I know for a fact that sewing is a hideous chore for me that usually ends in ugliness - cussing and throwing things, to be exact.

Seriously.

Nevertheless, I couldn't get Snug Harbor Sails out of my mind.

Doug Nordby at work - Snug Harbor Sails

We arrived in La Paz late July.
I didn't mention my crazy idea to anyone.

While having dinner with friends, Jaye and Irwin on s/v Winsome, Jaye blurts out, "Hey, Meri. Do you know Doug at Snug Harbor? He could really use some help and I know you're really good at sewing and I keep thinking that you would be perfect for him if you have some extra time..."

And the unbelievable kismet, surreal, serendipity of her run-on sentence had me at Snug Harbor Sail's front door bright and early the next morning.

For me, timing was everything. And being in sync with the Universe helped, perhaps.

I pitched my unabashed worthiness to sail maker, Doug Nordby, and got myself an apprenticeship at Snug Harbor Sails that same day.

Me!

At 47 years old... learning a old timey, practical, maritime trade!

From a veteran sailmaker -

a true salty dog!

Snug Doug on a Boat Call - he's an awesome splicer!

It wasn't a total cruiser dream come true... he was unable to pay me. His previous employee absconded with the funds. But I thought I might be able to help get the business out of the red and into the black. So we devised an exchange... Doug would teach me sails and I would run the business. And Hotspur would get all her canvas and sail work done in a real sail loft - for FREE!

A sun cover Doug & I made for a sail boat

And guess what? I know how to fix a sail, how to fold a sail, and how to sail a sail.

I can patch a hole, repair a chafed leech line, rivet in a new head board, apply UV protection to a roller furling jib, sew a bolt rope together, correctly sew on slides and slugs, repair tears, make clew and tack and reef patches... heck, I've even made sails from scratch!

I've altered sail shapes, I've made corrections to sail flutter, I changed the camber, I've shortened sails, I've transformed hank-on headsails to roller furling and vice versa.

In the process of repairing a hole in this Dacron sail made by a hungry rodent

I've added draft stripes, made new batten pockets, hammered in grommets and have seized on hanks by hand. And I do know without a doubt, by the way, which side is the luff and which side is the leech.

I suck at splicing, but that's okay. You can't be good at everything.

What I have now is golden.

Knowledge.

I have a trade that I can take with me when we sail away from La Paz in the near future.

I can honestly boast that I know how to make sail repairs and I can put a new sail together.

With strength and efficiency.

Seriously.

I am an expert at seizing slides and slugs

I have enjoyed working alongside the charming, old, one-eyed geezer for many reasons.

He has many colorful stories and he is clever devil.

He is a fabulous cook and many times brings me delicious goodies.

But what I appreciate most is that he has shared his craft with me, like a father might share with his own child. Trade secrets. I have acquired knowledge from one of the last true-blue sail makers we have left in the world. And for me, that is a privilege.

I made this sprit sail for our Fatty Knees - all by myself!!

The cruising kitty may not have runneth over with this endeavor, but I have knowledge that will keep food on the table and our sails in the wind... no matter where we sail.

Hard at work!

Smoking Aboard in La Paz, Mexico

I've brought you up to speed with the kids over the past year. Now for the parents.

Jim has always kept busy with the various websites he hosts, like his How To Fold Paper Airplanes site. Keeping up to date with Google changes and upgrades is a busy job. Living in La Paz and having fully accessible internet on the boat 24-7 is a valuable bonus.

Jim, a beer and his water weenie - Gonzaga Bay, MX 2009

And boat projects... I could rattle off a list but every cruiser knows the list just goes on and on. Although Hotspur is looking quite dapper now that her gaping holes have been patched and painted. Roll and tip method... worked like a charm and a fraction of the cost - and done in the water. I'll post more about that sometime down the wave.

Stuck fishy in watermaker makes just one more boat project - 2009

On a personal interest note, Jim delved into an area this past year that has long peaked his interest: Sausage making and smoking meat.
Living on a boat and having food storage concerns might be a logical reason to have interest in this area. Maybe it is Jim's Polish and German background - or maybe it because we have had a heck of a time finding decent smoked meat in Mexico. Perhaps it is in preparation for our future voyage wherever... that preserved foods are so much more convenient when you are sailing long distances and have limited or no refrigeration. But no matter. I am blown away! My husband's sausage rocks! (Yes, I know -  I'm opening myself up to juvenile humor in the form of sausage jokes) But his bratwurst and hot, red spicy knockwurst are absolutely fantastic. His Italian and Breakfast sausage would give Jimmy Dean a run for his money. I swear - the man has tapped into a valuable niche market!

THE sausage man - La Paz, Mexico 2013

Jim reminded me of the Little Professor when he began down this road and built his very own trashcan smoker - a smoker made out of an new trash can and utilizing an electric hot plate as its heat source. Yes, I know - he could have gone out and bought a smoker... but where, pray tell,  is the fun in THAT?

A few months after playing with his trashcan and having successful results, things began to get serious. Jim got rid of the hand grinder and ordered an electric industrial sausage grinder with a variety of cutting blades and a sausage stuffer. As word got around that Jim was a serious smoker, an informant gave Jim a tip-  a Bradley Original Electric Smoker (never used) awaited him at one of the Segundas (Mexico's word for a Second Hand store). For a mere $50US. Jim began smoking daily.

Breakfast links in progress - La Paz, MX 2013

Succulent hickory chicken breast, mesquite pork chops, oaky beef ribs and whole roasted chicken -
even the catch of the day... marlin steaks. Well, somebody else's catch of the day and when word got out that Jim was smoking meat the fishermen just appeared.

The juiciest ever!

I don't know if this is a potential money maker for us or not. We sure are enjoying the end results, though. Don't ask what is going to happen to the electric smoker once we pull away from the marina - I really don't know. But I can guarantee that Jim and his smokin' hot charcuterie talent will have our larder overflowing with salt cured and smoky goodness!

Bi-Lingual And More...

Carolyne with a Chocolate Chip Starfish - Sea of Cortez 2009

One of her favorites - nori rolls. Mexico 2008

With Tim off to study in the States, we are down to only one baby bird in the nest. And she quickly took over the larger lower bunk that her brother left behind. I, on the other hand, quickly discovered we have SO much more storage space with the top bunk now vacant!! Yay for me!

Jelly suit - for sun and jellyfish protection. Mexico 2009

 Carolyne is now completely proficient in Spanish - a huge accomplishment since she spoke virtually not one Spanish sentence upon arriving to her first day of Mexican school last August. Yes, we had Spanish Studies in both kid's home school program, but it was a total disaster in Carolyne's case. She simply refused to learn it and made Spanish learning an agonizing chore. I finally gave up - threw my hands in the air and said to her in my best Jewish mother accent, "Fine. Fine! You want to be a ignoramus with no hope for the future for the rest of your life? Fine! I'm not going to kill myself. I'm not going to kill myself inside and out trying to teach you Spanish. Instead, you are going to help me with my Spanish and everyday we are going to study my flashcards." It sort of went better after that. Sort of.

La Pirata - La Paz, MX 2013

Going to an all Spanish speaking school changed things for Carolyne. She didn't have a choice anymore - she had to learn the language. And I can attest, this was a far better venue than me trying to teach her. For both of us!

Carolyne and friend Cris

I wish I could say that Carolyne has made long, lasting friendships - but it would be a lie. Although the local children have been loving and kind to her, Carolyne does feel like an outsider. Whether it is partially her personality or whether she just doesn't feel that she fits in, she has only made one really good friend, her teacher's daughter, Cris... who speaks some English.

Carolyne with her teacher, Pina, and friend Cris

And in a few weeks Carolyne will be starting school again for the interim. Secondary will be much more demanding than Primary and she will have many subjects to juggle. But she is a smart girl and Jim and I feel she needs to continue with her language studies. She is very good that way. And I don't have to be the one who teaches her. In fact, now she corrects me... and I love it!

Carolyne's new haircut - La Paz, MX 2013

Dog Found in Water in Sea of Cortez

Anyone missing a male Schnauzer?
Found in the water and rescued by the Mexican Navy near La Paz.
He was wearing a green and white polka-dotted bandanna around his neck.
Perhaps he belongs to a cruiser. Let us know if you have a lead. Thanks!

Long Overdue Update

I have received a flurry of emails from friends and readers that have wondered what the heck happened to us...
Did we quit cruising?
Are we okay?
Did we sell the boat or move back to the US?
Are Jim and I still married?
Did the kids finally kill each other because of living in such a small space?

Well, yes and no.

We did lose someone...
but not to death or divorce.

December 2008: Tim holding his 45 lb. Yellow Fin tuna

We are living in La Paz, Mexico aboard Hotspur. We're not exactly "cruising" anymore - once you decide to stay put for a spell - longer than a year - it is hard to call it cruising.
But when you're a full-time cruiser there are times you make the choice to put on the brakes and stop for a while (meaning whether or not you're moving around, your boat is your home and you will eventually pick up the anchor and go some place else).
Maybe you stop because you love a place so much that you want to enjoy it a little while longer.
Maybe you need to feed the cruising kitty and you found some work opportunities.
Or maybe your boat kid(s) need something different.

Boat chores: covering the mainsail

Moreover, our "cruising-pause" was decided so that our 17 year old teenager could figure out what options he had for the future. And moving around seemed to disrupt that. And so,
LA PAZ... or "The Peace"... what a perfect place for us to stop and reflect -  and look forward to - and discuss - and take a break from the gypsy sea life so that we could help our son make some decisions.

And so...what do you want to do when you grow up?

Who really knows what they want to do when they grow up?
All we can do is give our children the tools to forge their way and hope we have taught them how to think, how to survive and how to be happy. So, we arrived in La Paz and tossed our 12 year old (now 13) into an all Spanish speaking school. Sink or swim philosophy.

Summer 2009: Tim's catch of the day in the Sea of Cortez

Unfortunately, we could not get Tim into public school here and I tried and tried (lots and lots of bureaucratic red, white and green tape) - so we oozed our son back into some kind of 'normal' - a community format that allowed him lots of free time away from his family and off the boat. And, he got himself some experience working with other people. And he met lots of young adults. And he studied his Spanish. And he agreed to study for and take the GED -
which he passed just this past February and scored in the top 1%!
And yes, we had to fly him to the US to register for the exam and take it. No online options for the GED.

Friends at The Shack - La Paz, MX

Our son has officially graduated from high school!! Yay Tim!!

And while I was in the midst of planning his graduation party, the little turkey made a grown-up decision...
almost 3 weeks ago, Tim moved back to the USA to go to college.

It had to happen some time and we were expecting some thing somewhere along the way-
but it has been a surprisingly sad loss to have our son go so far away. And yet a very exciting adventure of a different sort for him.

April 2013: Tim - college bound!

Tim saying good-bye to his sister

So the Hotspur crew is down to 3 crew members. And we are planning to go somewhere between December 2013 - March 2014. We have discussed the South Pacific. We have pondered Panama. Jim mentioned the Caribbean just this evening. Heck, I don't know where we'll go, but we're going! And Jim keeps asking me, "So... what do you want to do when you grow up?"

And next week I'll share some tidbits about what Carolyne has been doing.