Teaching English Haphazzardly in Hanoi - Part I

The beautiful Dragon Fruit

I don't think when I hailed the GRAB moto-taxi (similar to Uber) that the driver expected I'd take the company name so literally. Freshly new to Hanoi, I clung tightly to the driver's waist as he zipped and dodged his motor bike through heavy rush-hour traffic along Hanoi's buzzing streets and highways. At a noisy traffic jam, he hesitated only briefly before veering up over the hump of a curb and speeding down the sidewalk as unsurprised pedestrians stepped out of his way. No one shook their fist at us. No one yelled obscenities. The rebel in me couldn't stop smiling as I reminded myself to keep my knees and elbows close to the bike as we brushed dangerously close to trees and light poles.

Caroyne's Colorful New Friend

The Dragon Fruit with Red Flesh Tastes Better than the White

The gray of dusk settled. I was too afraid to let go of the driver to check my phone for the time. But, I worried I'd be late. He suddenly jerked up a dark alley. If I'd wanted, I could've touch the cracked walls of old buildings on either side, so pulled my thighs in tighter across the bike's padded seat. I hoped I wasn't sending off some moto-taxi sexual message when my knee caps vice-gripped the driver's hips. None of the locals riding on the back of motos seemed to hang onto their drivers for dear life, enveloping them like a desperate hotdog bun.

We turned at high speed from the narrow alley into a lane. Women cooked beside the street on either side of us, crouched down stirring delicious recipes that filled the air with tummy-rumbling smells. Men chatted together, smoking long wooden meter-long pipes that gurgled gently as they sucked nicotine into their lungs. A woman on a bicycle selling flowers took off her conical hat and wiped her deeply-lined cheeks with a cloth, staring into my foreign face with her brows furrowed. We darted up a narrow drive and stopped. I paid the driver 22,000 Vietnamese dong for my thrill ride - exactly $1US.

Selling tea cups, plates and tupperware

A plastic passenger

Hoan Kiem Lake at night

I stared at the ancient house- partially crumbled, adorned with fierce dragons racing across its rooftop with pointed corners that curled up like the tips of Aladdin's shoes. The lovely pagoda was in the oldest Hanoian neighborhood where proud descendants still lived in their family homes. Little shoes lined up along the wall told me where to find the entrance, a large black door left wide open in expectation of my arrival. A 40ish-year-old Vietnamese man greeted me and invited me into his home. After serving me a glass of water, he sat down in front of me - ready to conduct the interview. I asked myself what I was doing.
At night.
In a dark alley.
At a stranger's house.
Interviewing to teach English.

Our whole purpose of spending three months in Hanoi was so I could explore the teaching possibilities. We'd heard teaching English was BIG in Vietnam. And what we discovered was...
it's bigger.

But when we arrived...
I had no leads.
I had no friends.
I had little clue. Okay, I had virtually NO clue.

Fan dancers in the park

Before we left our sailboat, Hotspur, in Fiji and leapt into Asia, we'd read several blog sites from travelers who had done what we were considering doing. I say "we", but Jim wasn't (and still isn't) considering teaching. And Carolyne is a wee bit young yet... (however we're thinking of seriously sending her through a CELTA course for certification. Seriously.) But, I came to Hanoi prepared for job hunting. I'd read up on what employers wanted. And I fit the bill... except for the 20-40 age guideline, which I'd hoped no one would notice.

My credentials were in order, referred to in Vietnam as a "Curriculum Vitae" or "CV" for short. They include:
A cover letter
A resume geared toward teaching
A scanned copy of my University transcript
My TEFL online certificate completed August 2016 (Four weeks before arriving in Hanoi, I signed up for an online ESL teaching certificate to boost my chances of getting hired. I signed up with Uni Prep,a 120-hour course for $250... which I finished in less than 48 hours. Some of the more serious international schools don't accept this type of credential.)

In addition, I included a photo of me teaching students in American Samoa, a letter of recommendation from a previous school where I taught and a one page scanned copy of a magazine article I had published in March... to show off my writing and grammar skills.

First, if you are from a country where "discrimination" is a dirty word, then coming to Vietnam might shake you up. Get ready - there is nothing wrong with an employer asking your age and if you get upset about that, you lessen your chances of getting hired. In fact, your CV should include a headshot (or professional-ish photo of your face) and probably should include your age (though I left my age off and hoped my Porcelana skin would radiate "forever youth" through my photo). That's another thing about discrimination in Vietnam - lighter skin is revered. Is that wrong? It just is what it is. Maybe a woman is preferred over a man and the ad might say so. Maybe Russian English is secondary to New Zealand, Canadian or American English. Maybe "beauty" is preferred to superb teaching skills. Here, no one hides under a pretense of "fair hiring practices". Fairness doesn't exist.

Before dinner with our friends, Joe and Marilyn, as Jim
goes for the fluffy-hair-in-the-fan look

Then, there was a problem of dodging the "scammers". It wasn't that there weren't any leads... there were tons. But who is honest and wonderful to work for? And who's a liar and thief? So, before hitting the pavement I joined several Facebook groups talking about teaching and hiring teachers and about Hanoi in general. You get a great feel for credible employers.... and ones you might want to avoid:
Hanoi Massive Jobs
Hanoi English Teaching Jobs
Hanoi Teachers
English Teachers in Hanoi
School and Center Rating
and I'm still awaiting a response from a group I'm interested in joining because I can't wait to read about skanks and their devious ploys to entrap unsuspecting teaching hopefuls:
Hanoi English Teacher Bad Experiences Exchange.

Carolyne strolling around Hoan Kiem Lake, 
close to where we're living

It was through one of these Facebook groups I met Daren, a rockin' good teacher from New York City who needed to go home for a couple months and wanted to recruit a substitute teacher to cover his block of classes until he returned. He wanted to make a decision quickly, so I agreed to meet him at a cafe to discuss the details only four days after we arrived in Hanoi (and I'd had time to recoup from a nasty respiratory and gut flu). I ordered a coffee and waited. I was pleasantly surprised when a tall, handsome black man with long dreds gently salted with smidgens of gray walked through the door. We introduced ourselves and he sat down, removing his folding reading glasses from his pocket as he ticked off his teaching schedule. In the end, I was the perfect fit. I agreed to commit to his schedule and hold it sacred until his return in October.

Pokemon Go just started in Vietnam this week

Transport isn't always motorized - or safe

$1 Beer Corner attracts more locals than tourists

Daren is living proof that no matter what you hear the odds are against (more melanin, more gray hair, wrinkles, a Bohemian vibe v.s. Armani...) if you're a good teacher and a likable person, then the odds are favorable.

But sadly, my block of classes didn't quite work out as I expected. Before Daren left Vietnam, over half his classes I'd been promised were gifted to someone else by the director at the school to some whiny baby who threatened to quit without notice if he didn't inherit more hours. Daren is way cooler than Whiny Baby and will get his classes back upon his return in October, I'm sure of it.  But for me - since Whiny Baby didn't take all Daren's classes (which would have been preferable)- I found myself juggling a jigsaw puzzle of higgledy-piggledy open and closed slots... which is how I found myself at an interview.
At night.
In a dark alley.
At a stranger's house.
Thank you, Whiny Baby.
Really. I mean it.
Thank you.

Part II To Come...

The Coffee Culture in Hanoi

A hole-in-the-wall coffee shop with free Wifi filled to the brim with locals.
Cafe Dinh has great coffee at a great price.

Vietnam is the world's second largest exporter. It's a country that runs on coffee.

One of the first discoveries we made in Hanoi was the endless amount of coffee shops. Coffee is a big part of society here. It's for the young and old - the rich and poor - the creative and lame. Coffee is an all day affair. But, it's not just the quantity of coffee... it's the quality. Coffee in Hanoi is exceptional to what we've been drinking the past several years.

A typical Vietnamese coffee consists of espresso rich java mixed with a little condensed milk. It's delightful... served either hot in a ceramic cup or over ice cubes in a tall, clear glass.

But unlike Jim and Carolyne (who can eat sugary sweets without any love handle, muffin top or piggly-jiggly setbacks), I have to be very careful. I've found I dislike the plain black coffee here, which I parallel to drinking a thick, steeping wad of dark tobacco leaves spat out by an ogre with a bad case of gingivitis. It's terribly bitter. I contribute its popularity to the vast amount of cigarette smokers in Hanoi who have whacked out taste buds and don't realize they're drinking what amounts to the offal in a spittoon. I haven't dared to try the espresso, which might be fatal.

We try to sit upwind of the cigarettes, also very popular

Jim sitting on his bitty chair in a crowded coffee shop

Instead, I adore a beautiful latte. And the latte art is as divine as the drink itself. I've discovered beautiful lattes cost between $2 and $3. It's less sugar than the typical Vietnamese coffee, which we've found as cheap as 75 cents, but I prefer the milkiness of the latte and it has less sugar,

Coffee outlets selling beans, grounds
and accoutrements are popular

Anywhere in Hanoi, you might find weird coffee combos like:
Egg Coffee
Yogurt Coffee
Coconut Coffee
Sea Salt Coffee
Coffee with Lime

Carolyne, who drinks coffee now and then, can't handle the strength of the Vietnamese brews. Instead, she suffers through the endless smoothie drinks made with local fruits.

Looking miserable with a freshly blended strawberry smoothie

We are not City People - but we are now

Statue of Ly Thai To, who relocated the capital from Hoa Lu to Hanoi

Dragons are ornamental and BIG everywhere

Jim, Carolyne and I left our beloved sailboat, Hotspur, in the calm recesses of Savusavu and flew to Vietnam to research money making opportunities. Having spent the past several years on quiet islands with relaxed and laid-back people, it was more than just a culture shock coming to Vietnam.

Rickshaws carrying tourists along Hoan Kiem Lake

A Topiary Herd

Arriving in Hanoi was a jolt. It wasn't just the traffic that prompted “deer in the headlights” expressions on all three of us. It was the total disregard of traffic lights, vehicles speeding down streets in the wrong lanes and the plethora of motorbikes that imitate a swarm of confused insects going different directions in a mad rush to get somewhere. Crossing the street on foot takes a bit of finessing. I've learned to open my eyes now while doing it. Week one I caught the flu, slipped on granite stairs flat on my back and met a cool dude from NYC who asked me to take his English classes while he went on vacation through October. 

Little ladies in conical hats carrying shoulder pannier
baskets makes an iconic street scene

 The flu knocked me down and I stayed in bed for two days straight, unable to keep my eyes open for more than an hour at a time. It started in my head, went into my chest and ended with a grand flu-finale in my gut. Luckily, we found a nice hotel and I sank into the comfort of a cushy bed, air conditioning and a stocked fridge. Thankfully, Jim and Carolyne were spared.

Hanoi Gortage Hotel - $29 a night with French Balcony

A broken water pipe at Hanoi Gortage sent us next door to the
Impressive Hotel... SO nice!! Yes, those are rose petals on our sheets.

Around the corner from our hotel is St. Joseph Cathedral - popular for weddings.

A trip to the History Museum

When I finally WAS able to get out and about, I walked to the grocery store. It felt wonderful to get outside and enjoy some of the daily sites. “Wonderful” lasted until slipped on a wet patch in the grocery store, causing my feet to fly into the air. I fell hard on the edge of the granite stairs, producing a black butterfly in a men's size 12 across the top third of my butt crack. I hobbled out of the grocery store and went shopping for a new pair of flip flops with tread. 

This picture is a small glimpse into Hanoi's "moto madness"

Love the hair - and no hands

Plenty of street vendors

Wearing face masks is common, as is long-sleeved hooded jackets with built in hand covers
 to protect from the sun and dust

Before I left Fiji, I scanned a copy of my University transcript and wrote up a resume to teach English in Hanoi. I also had a scanned copy of my TESOL certificate. But, finding a job for only three months proved more challenging than I expected. Very few (if any) centers want to hire a teacher for short term. Luckily, I met an American man from New York who needed a substitute for his classes through October. It was a perfect fit. Unfortunately, it wasn't a full schedule so I am still trying to find temporary work to fill in the dead days. 

Rickshaw driver trying to drum up business

A street vendor selling trai nahn - or lychee

Jim waiting impatiently for me to scurry across the busy street

Waitui Marina, Curly and Savusavu Marina - Thank You!

(Photos courtesy of Waitui Marina via sv Cable Length II)

I know you're probably sick of hearing about this, but it's epic to those of us affected by Cyclone Winston.

Manager, Jolene, of Waitui Marina and my favorite Fijian, Laila

Three of the four mooring operators - Jolene (Waitui Marina),
Curly (Curly's Moorings) and Lala (Savusavu Marina)

It took many months to save the boats that crashed aground after the Cat-5 cyclone. To date, all but two boats out of the 23 have been re-floated. Of the two that remain aground, one was abandoned and has been purchased on the cheap by someone... and the other – the last I heard its owners left the country after Winston and have yet to be tracked down.

Locals came to celebrate, too

Beautiful Millie of sv Rainbow Shadow

The amount of energy and sacrifice that went into re-floating boats in Savusavu is tremendous. I wrote an article about it was published this month in Boating New Zealand magazine (June 2016). The best phrase I can think of to describe the endeavor without cussing is: Insanely Intense.

Pick up a copy of Boating NZ: 'Wrecked and Righted'  - June 2016

Alastair, Feraliga and Baby Ambrosia from sv Contraband
(Okay - Baby is also another favorite Fijian)

Curly enjoying a Fiji brew

Jolene, the manager at Waitui Marina, had a great idea at some point during the rescue of the boats. She invited all the marinas to participate in a free party for the cruisers – for those who were wrecked and the cruiser volunteers who were helping those who were wrecked. Curly and Savusavu Marina accepted Waitui's invitation and the three mooring operators out of the four here in Savusavu hosted a heart-warming shindig.

Chillin'

Bona on sv Good News and friend

Music, free barbecue and side dishes... and FREE FIJI BEER... yes, free beer... made for a fun-tastic afternoon. It may not seem like much after enduring Cyclone Winston. But, that party was a boost to morale that was badly needed.

Cheers!

So, thank you to Waitui Marina, Curly and Savusavu Marina for supporting the cruising community and supplying us with an afternoon of food and fun (and beer). It was a nice distraction from the drudgery of the hellacious tasks we'd started and would see through to the end.

Make Savusavu Your First Stop in Fiji

We love Savusavu - it's why we've been here for almost a year.

We love the small town feel. We love the small businesses. We love how easy it is to provision. We love our new friends.

Our back yard where we're house sitting - photo by Carolyne

Tropical Cyclone Winston made a mess out of things, but Savusavu bounced back quickly. To date, twenty of the twenty-three boats have been re-floated. The vegetation is growing back rapidly. Some of the villagers are still living in tents or with family members because their homes were destroyed, but there's food and water. Fresh produce is harder to come by and is more expensive because crops were destroyed in the storm, but as I indicated above, things grow quick here.

Coconuts fresh from the back yard - photo by Carolyne

So... why make Savusavu your first stop in Fiji?
We've been told by long time cruisers it's easier to check into Fiji through Savusavu. The government agencies are within waking distance, so there's a faster turn around time finalizing the paperwork.

There are four "marinas" to choose from. All of them offer check-in services and will arrange officials to come out to your boat. Here is what you can expect from each one:

 Jim's photo is in the 2016 Fiji Shores and Marinas

Waitui Marina:
Waitui Marina is the first marina you pass coming into Nakama Creek from Savusavu Bay. They have helix moorings and are located conveniently next door to Fiji Meats and across the street from the gas station, M&H grocers, Immigration, Customs and Sally's Deli. Tropical Cyclone Winston destroyed their wharf, but they are rebuilding it as we speak. They have a yummy restaurant and beer/wine bar attached. You can buy a 3-piece fish and chips for $5... or $2.50US. And, it's good! Laundry service is also available at reasonable rates. Waitui also handles DHL shipping. The charge is $300F for a mooring per month.

The #1 feature of Waitui marina is their manager, Jolene Sami. She knows what customer service is all about. She is the best. Period. She goes over and above to assist her clients.

(Jim's photo of Waitui was printed on page 130)

Contact Jolene:

CH 16

waituimarinafiji@gmail.com

679-885-3057

16* 46.44 South / 179* 19.51 East

Village children collecting shells at low tide - photo by Carolyne

Copra Shed Marina:
This is the next marina in the line of succession. They charge the most about $360F per month for a mooring. They have 15 or so slips at the dock as well as moorings. They have a beautiful courtyard, nice bathrooms and a tiny marine shop. They have two restaurants. Laundry services are available here. Prices tend to run on the high side.

Contact Dolly:
CH 16
coprashed@connect.com.fj
679-885-0457
16* 46.7 South / 179* 2.0 East

Curly's:
He's the port captain of Savusavu and runs the daily VHF net providing weather service for the fleet. His customers can use the Surf and Turf dinghy dock, which is at the end of town. There are no shower facilities.

Rates: Curly says he's got the "best rates in town", so contact him at curly carswell @ gmail.com, OR cell (679) 868 0878

Brightly colored hermit crabs - photo by Carolyne

Savusavu Marina:
Savusavu Marina is located on the outskirts of "downtown" proper. However, the cruiser camaraderie at Savusavu is thick. There are showers, a dock for a couple of boats in addition to moorings and they are the only facility with a do-it-yourself full-size washer.

Contact : Meli or Laila
CH 16
savumari@connect.com.fj
679-885-3543

Hermit crabs devouring a fallen coconut on the beach - photo by Carolyne

Deliveries to Savusavu Needed - Calling All Sailboats

(I'm getting super frustrated because photos won't load. When the internet adjusts its attitude, I'll attach some good pics.)

This post is to anyone who is coming to Savusavu, Fiji...

knows of anyone coming to Savusavu, Fiji...

or has a friend of a friend of a friend who is coming to Savusavu, Fiji.

To date, eighteen of the twenty-three boats have been re-floated by cruiser volunteers. It's remarkable. Some of those volunteers lost precious gear they donated to the cause. Ropes, dinghies, chain, and other heavy items were destroyed in the effort. Some boaters who have been re-floated have numerous repairs and need parts.

IF you are headed to Savusavu (or anywhere in Fiji) OR you know someone coming this direction from New Zealand or American Samoa or Australia, please contact me via this blog or email me at fijicruisers@gmail.com. We're looking for boats to bring replacement gear.

You can read about Tropical Cyclone Winston in Cruising World mag (May 2016 issue) and you can read about the recovery efforts in the June issue of Boating New Zealand mag.