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Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Taiohae, Nuku Hiva Day 24-28

We were boarded by the French navy. Unlike other cruisers we know who were searched (and were found to have had some things they neglected to mention to the authorities... like 6 or 7 bottles of rum... Oopsie!!... “forgotten” in a sock drawer), we were not searched. They asked us a few questions: How much alcohol did we bring on board? Do we have drugs or guns? Do we have any black pearls? Do we have any animals or plants? Cigarettes? They wanted to see our flare guns and recorded the number of flares we had. They were polite, official and then they left.

Spicy red peppers grow wild and are cultivated
Jim is antsy to get going... the 90 day Visa thing – tick-tock-tick-tock... and he wants to see more of French Polynesia.
Carolyne is eager to get her school work done every day so that she can hook up with her cruising friends collected here. She is in no hurry to leave Nuku Hiva.
I am blissful as can be... I could stay or I could go. I get up early to visit the fishermen and see their daily catch and watch them feed fish heads to the sharks. I take in the panoramic view. I skip off to the stores before the other cruisers so I can buy fresh baked baguettes before they're gone. I use the internet. I take in the panoramic view. I read a good novel after lunch. I do a boat chore or 2. I take in the panoramic view. And I take a 1-2 hour nap in the late afternoon.
Marquesan Tattoos

A local woman going to church
The Taiohae anchorage is by far the most uncomfortable anchorage we have experienced in the Marquesas. The bay is wide open and so the swell rolls in. It can also be gusty and there are currents that mimic the La Paz Waltz. I think it would be best if cruisers followed the advice in Charlie's Charts and bow and stern anchored. When we arrived, however, only one boat had a stern anchor. Whether they were there first or not I don't know, but the rule of thumb is that you do as everyone else when you arrive. It just doesn't work to have some boats swinging and others not. And it annoys me to no end to find a good spot to drop the hook, back down on the anchor and THEN discover that the boat on the port side has a stern anchor... and no one else does. All you can do is hiss at the offender and find another spot.
Veg & fruit market
Market Day in Nuku Hiva is on Wednesday and Saturday. Fresh supplies of veggies and fruits are brought into town and quickly sold. I was advised to get there early... before 6am. The produce is fresh, a bit pricey and there is not a lot of it – but what is there is beautiful! Everyone waits in line (cruisers and local people) – first come, first serve style. You go in one family at a time and buy your goods. Carolyne and I came out with a small bag of tomatoes, a small bag of sweet potatoes, green beans, 3 cucumbers, a large white radish and a small head of cabbage for $20. And the flavors of the fruit and veg are out of this world – definitly worth the money and the wait in line in my opinion. Eggs are a mystery – especially with all the chickens running around. Almost none of the cruisers have been able to buy eggs – not even pre-order. The cruisers that did manage to beg, borrow or steal eggs said they were very, very small – and at the price they paid for a dozen, probably not worth it.

1 comment:

  1. Very nice photos. The local woman going to church looks like such a lovely person.